Well it all started with an inquiry call i received from Sarika 2 weeks back. I was excited to explain her about my most adventurous trek till 4th Jan 2011, Harishchandra Gad via Nalichi vaat back in June 2009 with Urja.
Day 1 | 23:15 hrs: Kalyan ST Depot. Stale Wadapav in one hand, phone in right hand trying to connect with Sarika, backsack of around 10 kgs. Checked with the officials at ST depot, which is the last bus for Savarne. My baby-elephant's memory was telling me that there is one last bus at 00.30hrs, however the ST officials were claiming that the last bus is at 23:45hrs. Another group of young enthusiast trekkers came in at the enquiry window and asked about the 00.30hrs Nagar bus. The person at the enquiry counter was so irritated he answered him, "tya bus cha kahi nakki nahi aho, aali tar yeil nahitar sakal paryant ithech basa bomblat!!".
Day 1 | 23:45 hrs: UlhasNagar-Pathardi bus entered the ST depot. The driver logged his entry, had a quick round of bidi and pee time and returned near the bus. Just when he finished checking the tyres and entered the cockpit, i knocked on his window and asked him, "Kaka, 5 minute thambu shakta ka?". He replied with a meek voice, "nahi bhau, time jhala ata, nighato...".
Day 1 | 23:55 hrs: A herd entered ST depot, each one of them having carrymats tugged to their sacks. I understood, this must be none other than Sarika's group. Although Sarika and Ashlesh had not yet come, and were on the way. 5 minutes later my phone started blinking "TTS Sarkya calling...". After a quick round of intro with few of their friends, around 00.15 Nagar-Kalyan-Nagar bus entered the ST depot. There was quite a good competition to catch the seats as there were couple of other groups as well who were willing to catch that bus. Few of our folks managed to get in through the window.
Day 2 | 03:30 hrs: We got down at Savarne bus stop, its just when the actual Malsej ghat starts and alight point for harishchandra gad via nalichi vaat. We decided to rest our back and butt till 5am in the morning near a haunted house just outside the Savarne village.
It was a beautiful night with moon showering its lime-light over us from the west and the chilling cold malshej ghat in the east where we could see only moving headlights of the vehicles traversing the malshej. Few opted to have a powernap, whereas few were busy clicking night mode shots and few decided to have night chat.
Day 2 | 05:15 hrs: We left that place and started moving towards Savarne village. Trying to find the way through the gully's of savarne village we reached one house where there was an old person sleeping in the varanda. I tapped on his legs and asked about the way to belpada(base village for nalichi vaat). He immediately woke and guided us through the way. We kept walking on the dusty way which took us till the base of the short hill between Savarne and Belpada. After crossing the hill, we reached halfway to Belpada. The way from Savarne to Belpada is very confusing and especially if you are walking in the moonlight. Just when we crossed the first hill, the dawn broke up and the almighty started its painting on the canvas behind the malshej in the east.
Orange, pink, purple, magenta it had all the colors in the world which are not even yet discovered by this TV manufacturing companies. It was a truely mesmerizing experience.
Day 2 | 07:00 hrs: All we knew was we had to climb one more hill which is on our right hand side and we will be able to touch base kokankada. However, the way to reach the top was not so easy and nothing more than a maze where we lost our way couple of times. Few of us even climbed the hill and got more confused as the village on the other side looked like savarne (from where we had actually started our moonwalk). Ashlesh, Sameer and Vaibhav decided to move ahead and find out the way whereas other rested their butts in the brown dry fields of Savarne, enjoying the sun bath.
Day 2 | 07:30 hrs: Vaibhav returned back with a good news that they have found the way with the help of a villager and we were back on our track. The descend from the hill took us till the tar road which ended up at belpada. Although we took an hour and half extra, but the walk on the tar road with kokan kada exactly in front was amazing.
It was as if KK was calling us with its arms wide open for a tight jhappi(hug).
Day 2 | 09:15 hrs: We freshened up ourself on a well where females from Belpada were busy washing utensils and filling up their cisterns. Immediately after the quick cleanup we had a real quick breakfast which comprised of bread, butter, thecha, lasun chatni, jam and parathas. Everyone was so hungry that the entire breakfast was over in less than 15 mins. We hired a person from the village (Tulshiram) who agreed to take us till the base of Nali, from there onwards the route was pretty straight and no chance of loosing over way in the middle.
Day 2 | 11:00 hrs: Road till base of Nalli was through fields of paddy. We were inching closer to KK every minute. During my first visit from Nalli i had thought that we will reach exactly below KK and can spend sometime over there, but thats not possible. Although it looks closer, it takes 1 - 2 hours if you need to go exactly below KK and as per Tulshiram, that place isnt safe, its haunted, not sure though. He had been there only once with some campers who had climbed KK cliff. The straight road from the paddy field was now transformed into rocky-way. Its actually, the route created by waterfalls during monsoon. There were water cisterns and natural ponds which had formed in the rocks, water in those pond was nothing less than holy water.
Day 2 | 12:30 hrs: Tulshiram was laughing at us since most of us had drowned when we had not even yet till the start of Nalli. He tried to convince me that the route ahead is tough and you should take me till the top. The route changes after every monsoon, it has become more difficult than last year. By this time, i had become slightly aware of the strengths and weaknesses of the group. My mind had started thinking about the action plan by now. I understood that none of these guys are aware of the challenges are kept for us on top. Many of them were moving at a faster pace but they were either new or going to apply breaks to their speed when the actual patch starts. Until now everything was fine, there were just rocks to climb but the 1st patch of 20 feet and 3rd traverse patch are actual USP's of Nali. Any avid trekker would love those patches more than his girlfriend. I tried to inject my concern raised by Tulshiram in Ashlesh's mind and Ashlesh then tried to spread it among the group.
Day 2 | 13:00 hrs: The guy in white shirt, khaki half pant and slippers rested his butt on a tree, yeah Tulshiram! I understood, he is now going to go back. My confidence had almost dropped down to 50% at that point. I tried to convince Sameer that we should take Tulshiram with us, atleast since he is leading, we will feel like following him and we will keep moving, however, Sameer had a different thought over this, he said, let him go, we will lead and people will follow us. This statement from Sameer charged me up and the trekker in me doubled/tripled the confidence in me.
Day 2 | 13:30 hrs: By now i had made up my mind. I took the charge and started moving ahead. Initially i was with the last group, i slowly slowly overtook each mini-group and joined the marchers(Mansi, Deepak, Durvesh, Sameer and 2 hindi-bhashik folks, Rahul and Hardy). We took a pledge that we will not touch water unless and until we cross the third patch. Many of us took the oath as well. I remember, at one point i even yelled at Swati/ Mansi for passing water to Durvesh. We were one group, but actually speaking there were two groups, one was me and rest, the 19. I am saying so because, in me there was a fear and in others there was enthusiasm, zeal of Nali. This group didnt know whats kept for them before the third patch. Yes the slipping scree and the boulders which were moving from their position at the pace of a moon in a lunar eclipse.
Day 2 | 14:00 hrs: Mansi being a naive trekker was marching through the rocks just like monkeys from one tree to another. I instructed her to wait at the point when there are no more trees in your path and you would see only rocks around you. Vaibhav, Ashlesh and Kaivalya was doing really well with the trailers and kicking laal chaddi's ass so that we can make it on time. By now, Kalyani's bag on my shoulders and my huge sack had started giving problem to me. I somehow said Kalyani that if she can carry her sack now, as its becoming very difficult for me. Kalyani agreed to carry it, was happy that everyone has now understood the responsibility. However, the next time i saw Kalyani's bag, it was with Kaivalya :P ;).
Day 2 | 14:30 hrs: First patch was pretty easy, was impressed to see Swati took the charge and climbed it with ease, then Kalyani and then everyone followed. Vaibhav as well took a different route and he was on top of the rock patch in no time. In his previous life, he must be a lizard if m not wrong.
Day 2 | 15:00 hrs: Just when everyone were happy that we have now crossed the first patch, here came the second one. Actually i had forgotten about this patch and all i was thinking, the patch which Swati climbed up was the first one. Infact it was the most easiest one. Actually patches had started now. We spent around 45 minutes here because it was approx around 20 feet high and 85 degree inclined. One could easily start-off well on this patch, but once you reach half way there were no gaps to sneak in your fingers and place your foot and to make things worst the small gaps were becoming big with the scree in the gaps was coming out and making the holders weak after every member passes from that area. If you wait for more than 5 seconds at a place then your legs will start trembling and hand grips will start slipping. The best way to get rid of it was to move as fast as possible. I was 3rd last to climb that patch, also took a powernap in those 30 minutes and made up my mind during that break because the most difficult section was coming up next and i had to be there to tie the rope or atleast help Vaibhav in doing so. I had almost drowned by now, blood in my veins were yelling to dilute themselves. I poured almost half packet of glucon-D into my mouth and broke my pledge. Had i not done that i would have crashed over there. Kept those feelings to me.
Day 2 | 14:30 hrs: Just when i completed the second patch. I started moving towards the 3rd one with my sack on my back. I asked Nikhil and Durvesh to join with. Route from patch 2 to patch 3 is the most deadliest. Full of scree and boulders. You step your feet on one boulder and the person following you has to make sure that the boulder is not going to come rolling down over him. Slowly slowly Nikhil reached till the end of the Nalli. For a novice or first-timer at Nallichi vaat, the road seems to end at that point. At one moment you would even think that you have lost the way and you must have entered a wrong Nali, but thats not true, just when the Nali ends there is a traverse patch which one needs to climb to enter the right Nali. Although Nikhil had reached till the end of Nalli, i was yet to reach there and explain him whats the action plan. I was stuck at one point standing on continuously slipping scree and willing to get onto a rock which was baseless. Had it slipped, would have gone back atleast 20-30 feet back on my track and would have taken couple of more guys along with me. Actually i had taken the wrong way, i should have opted to take the boulder path than the scree filled path. Took a deep breath and carefully got on top of the rock. Just when i climbed up and was having a sigh of relief, i saw Durvesh coming behind me. Oh Shit! was my first reaction, i could tell him to go back and come from other way, but it was not possible. Slowly placed my sack at a safe place. Dragged myself till Durvesh and lifted him. I could see the fear of death in Durvesh's eyes. Had never seen anyone so much afraid in any of my treks till date, although have heard of, but this time was witnessing it. Pulled Durvesh up and asked him to take deep breath. He was so afraid that i asked him to move one step above and he was hesistant, i could imagine his heart beating faster than tampered autorickshaw meter's of mumbai.
Day 2 | 16:30 hrs: Making sure that Durvesh is stable now, i started moving towards Nikhil. Nikhil's condition was not anything different than Durvesh's. I reached till Nikhil who was sitting exactly at the tip of Nalli, there was a overhang above us which was around 100-120 feet. Mr. Sun was getting ready for a dip in the Arabian Sea. Although we were not able to see the Sun but from the point where we were sitting, we could see the mountain range on the left side of KK. I asked Durvesh to callup Vaibhav with rope. Vaibhav in no time, reached till me and Nikhil. Now we three were in an awkward position and i was explaining Nikhil and Vibhav what we need to do next. I explained Vaibhav, he needs to climb the rock patch above us and keep moving right till a small plant of sacred fig(peepal) in its premature stage which had come out of the rocks. The plan was Vaibhav had to tie the rope to that plant and drop it down, a person will sit exactly below that plant (approx 12 feet) on the scree tie the rope one by one to each of our's waist and Vaibhav will give his hand from top and pull the person on top. But hangon hangon, this is possible only when Vaibhav will reach there without a rope first, i mean without any support. Vaibhav made a statement here, "Praful, can you go ahead, you have already done this once, can you please take the lead?". A BIG PAUSE! ............. I was stumped with that statement, reason being last time when i had been through Nalli, Amit and Siddhesh Paradkar had taken the responsibility of free climbing. And now, this was my moment of the trek. I was DOWN with confidence at one moment with Vaibhav's statement and was UP with another statement. "The only way to avoid it, is to face it. -[Movie 300]". That statement was inspirational, god knows where did that statement came into my mind, but it pumped me up. I immmediately removed my floaters and took a look at the traverse which covered around 15 feet horizontal. Thankfully the place where Nikhil was sitting, there was one more peepal tree which was in its much early stage hardly 2-3 months old may be it must have cropped out during this monsoon. I tied a rope-end to that plant and another to my waist. Well it was just for mental satisfaction that i am tied to something even if i fall, even though it was of no use, coz i dont think that the plant could handle 60 kgs. I started moving, two hands on the gaps on top and legs making places between cracks. I was trying to concentrate hard, by this time, Hardy and Durvesh had reached till the rock cut steps and were managing their places. There was lot of chaos around, which was making me difficult to concentrate. I lost my patience and finally yelled, "guys please stop murmurring, let me concentrate. give me 5 minutes. please be quite." and there was silence. Thanks for listening to me and sorry guys for being so rude at that time. Finally i could see myself moving closer to the premature peepal tree. Only thing i could see at that time was the peepal tree. Slowy slowly making my way through the cracks and holders i managed to steal my way till the peepal tree. A sigh of relief, for me, for Vaibhav, Nikhil and for all the spectators. Many of them might not be even knowing this until they read this.
Day 2 | 17:45 hrs: Sameer took the responsibility of sitting on the scree and tying the rope to every member. Vaibhav showed a demo to everyone and then others followed. Everyone was happy that we have completed the 3rd patch and we are now going to reach the plateau. Although we had missed the sunset from KK, my mind had some new plans, before the sparkling stars break out we should reach the plateau. I was finding it difficult since 5/6 members were yet to complete the final patch. I asked Vaibhav to take the rest of the crew ahead and start moving towards to plateau. I explained him the route till top as much i could remember.
Day 2 | 19:10 hrs: By the time everyone crossed the last patch it was completely dark. There was traverse and we had now moved to the right nalli (the one which is exactly beside KK). It is said that there are two Nali route, the right one being toughest of the two. At the 3rd patch the left nali ends and you will be directed to right nali. The start of the right nali was again a patch of around 8 feet, which we all climbed in dark. Thanks to the darkness that the fear about the height was now dead. Well, it was a complete fulltoss in the right nali, had anyone slipped, life would have been rude to us. We were able to hear people having chat on top. I was tensed when i understood that the members which had moved ahead to reach till plateau were still few steps ahead of us as they didnt find the way. We were making our way through the bolders and scree and in pitch dark with barely 2/3 torchs. I had an annoying torch which was in its own mood and was continuously flickering making things more worse for me.
Day 2 | 19:35 hrs: I heard someone shouting, "aye waat sapadli, waat sapadli!" I was happy and sad at the same time, because the voice was none-other than Rupal's. All i was wondering was, has Nallichi vaat become so easy that these guys found the way to plateau so easily? There was definitely some false hope. When i reached at a comparatively better position than that of scree, what i saw was, the moment of my life. I thank him for the wonderful mornings and for each new day in my life, i thank him for every happy moment in my life. I ask him to give me strength during crunch situations. I believe in him. All i used to believe till date was he exists in different forms. Human has given him different shapes and made his idols in different forms to make him look different so that people would believe that there is something which exists and which is par above human power, but frankly speaking he doesnt exists anywhere else but in me, in you, in everyone. He is GOD. Yes! i met GOD for the first time in my life. There were two villagers who came to rescue us.
Day 2 | 20:00 hrs: The way from there till the plateau was through a jungle and was a climb again through scree. My mind was resting now, since there were two new leaders who were paving the way for us. All i was a body which was comfortably numb which wanted to reach till KK as early as possible. I purposely kept quite and yelled at everyone to stay cool and keep following the GOD. God was so kind, that just when we reached the plateau they went to fetch some water for us. I heard them saying, "thamb paani gheun yeuya, pora tahanleli aahet". However, there was now water around, so we decided to move on. I followed one of them, the other one went ahead with an assurance to come back with water until we finish our 4th and the last patch. Just when we reached the last patch through another jungle, a rope was thrown from top, i quitely climbed the rope without any nautanki and sat up on the top with me sack as a cushion to my back. Till that time, the other GOD had brought a can full of liquid with "paani" written over it for us with a steel glass. I drank it, it was chilling cold. Not sure whether anyone has tasted AMRUT till date but i have! I sold it at 5 rs. per glass to each and everyone in the team. I could see everyone had handed themselves over to the two GODs who had come for our rescue.
Day 2 | 21:30 hrs: Another half hour of climb we were at the KK but this time on top. We were assured that we will be given Onion pakoda just when we reach KK. It was chilling cold at KK with breeze which was flowing at almost low of 8-10degree celcius. I would never forget that night when we had GOD made Onion pakoda, steaming hot pithala-bhakri and rice at 1 am. That was nothing else than heavenly experience.
Day 3 | 01:30 hrs: Immediately after the pithala bhakri, we decided to take the nap of content with some ghost stories and some old adventurous trek experiences. Finally at 02:00 each one of us was dead and remiscing in their dreams about our journey to heaven.
Day 3 | 05:30 hrs: 3-4 abstract images covered with blankets passed above my head, those were the villagers who had given us 2 of the 3 basic necessities last night, yes food and shelter. The cold weather was commanding me to stay under my bedsheet. Chappi, Sarika, Ashlesh, Rupal had arranged a bornfire to get rid of the cold. After completing the early morning nature's call I too joined the group sitting beside bornfire. Taking a quick warmup i pulled out canon from my handbag and moved towards KK. The dawn had just broke up and the clouds had covered a sheet over belpada village from where we had started yesterday. On the right side of the canvas of kokan kada clouds has arranged themselves like cotton balls over the pinkish-blue canvas. Everyone slowly started joining the camp at Kokan kada, where we spent some time enjoying the beauty of the heaven on earth as said by Arvind Barve.
Actually when you see the scenic beauty, all your egoes are crushed down, you feel meek infront of the nature, the power which nature has is divine. In our day to day life we face many challenges, and we boast when we overcome them and praise ourself, but when we see such naturally created structures we tend to get bowled, its the nature who is so strong, so robust, so beautiful yet so quite and never boasts about its greatness. At the same time, it gives you power, encourages you, improves your willpower, teaches you lessons, you feel strong when you spend time with nature, when you see such huge mountains aiming to grow more big and touch the sky. One can spend hours at kokan kada and still feel that he/she havent yet completely explored it. Huge, Vast, monumental, stupendous all these adjectives are void in front of KK. KK is simply immeasurable. If one decides to pendown about KK, he will never be able to end it up.
Day 3 | 09:00 hrs: Well, it was tea-time and chef Kiran and Prabodh had made wonderful tea. We gulped it with parle-G and banana chips. Immediately after the tea-round everyone rushed for the nature's call. Exhausting kilos of human waste with the company of nature is really fun. You get the maximum privacy and that too open privacy unlike our apartment's washroom where you are doing it privately and that too in a closed room, so whats the fun? Enjoy doing it in nature, its fun! Now since our fuel tanks were empty we decided to cook some khichdi and everyone offered a bit of help. Few decided to enjoy their time discussing yesterday's experience, everyone had a different script.
Day 3 | 13:00 hrs: We were all set to march back home but this time through pachnai. We gathered all the necessary information from Bhaskar (one of the GOD) and thanked him for his help when were in utmost need. We took darshan of Kedareshwar and the hemadpanthi style of temple constructed on Harishchandragad and started our descend through pachnai.
Day 3 | 14.30 hrs: One while descending through pachnai will get a feel that why the hell do we take another route when its so simple to visit harischandra gad via the safest and shortest route. Yes if you dont take any halts then you can reach the base in an hour. However, it was not so easy for us even on this route. Since Swati and Nilkanth had not seen kedareshwar cave, they went back with a promise to come back quickly, Ashlesh, Kaivalya and i decided to wait till they come back and rest all were ordered to start moving. We met Kalyani and Vaibhav halfway since Kalyani had a casuality and was moving slow with her injured leg. We were halfway down near the naturally formed water cistern and saw everyone sitting there, however Sarika, Sameer, Mansi, Deepak were missing.
Prabodh told they seem to have taken the wrong route and were untraceble. Ashlesh started worrying up. Few of us ran through the way which was heading in wrong direction and started calling Sarika, Sameer loudly. But there was no response. Finally we decided that everyone will start moving ahead and Ashlesh and i decided to wait for sometime at that place. Plan was someone will rush down and locate Sarika and team and send us the news back. We spent almost 45 minutes there and with a gut feeling Ashlesh and i made a move. Sarika is known to be unstoppable during descends, so she might have already reached the base hence we started moving. We met Vaibhav and team halfway and finally got the news that Sameer, Sarika and team have reached the base.
Day 3 | 16:30 hrs: Another twist, Sakharam who owns the jeep which was supposed to take us till Rajur was not in the village. We had left a message on Sakharam's cell that we will touch base by 14:30 and wish to hire his jeep. Ironically, Sakharam had left his phone somewhere and was hired by someone from another village. Chappi and i along with a villager tried to findout Sakharam's house, however his old mother had no idea where her son is, Sakharam's 4 year son came following us till the pachnai chowk. Just when we reached Pachnai chowk, a vehicle honking its horn came towards pachnai chowk. My face was shining bright when i heard from the fellow villager that its Sakharam's jeep. We immediately fixedup the rent and divided the team of twenty into two. Sakharam had to drop someone which was about to take atleast half an hour.
Day 3 | 18:30 hrs: Sakharam's kid tugged his father trouser, may be he was expecting a chocolate from his father who had left house for work when he was in deep sleep in the morning. We started from Pachnai, the curves on the road were increasing every km with the temperature droppping every minute. Sakharam could have driven with closed eyes on that road. He was just awesome.
Day 3 | 19:30 hrs: The greedy cab drivers hovered Kaivalya and me when they came to know that we want to catch the 21.15 Kasara local. We had made up our mind we wont give anything more than 1000 rs for Rajur to Kasara as 90 rs. is per-seat rate for cabs during day-time. However, since we had reached at an odd time, we finally had to spill 200 bucks extra. That asshole was driving so slow that Kaivalya and i was sure that we gonna miss the 21.15 local. We decided about the tickets to be bought in the cab itself.
Day 3 | 21:10 hrs: Just when the cab reached kasara station. Kaivalya ran to the ticket counter and before we entered the train, Kaivalya was IN with the tickets. Thats an advantage of being in NCC, you are taught to be fast. :). Still there was one ticket missing. Kaivalya ran again to get it. The indicator was showing 21:14 hrs. By that time Deepak did a good deed of buying bhel for each one of us. I finished it off when we reached Kalyan. Wish i had a straw to suck it, was bored of pouring it on hand and then in my mouth. My body was tired. Phone continuous busy to know where our other 10 members have reached. When i got the last news they had left from Rajur and were on the way to Kasara. The last local was on chart for them. If they miss it, then u-turn to Igatpuri for some express train to come to mumbai. Here, everyone started getting down one-by-one starting from Kalyan.
Day 4 | 00:00 hrs: Reached Dadar along with Chappi and other hindi bhashik guys ;). It was the climax of a memorable trek.
Day 4 | 01:15 hrs: Called up Ashlesh, came to know that they had missed their last Kasara local all because of another slow asso driver. They had just taken some Pawan express from Igatpuri and heading to Mumbai.
All in all one of the most adventurous trek i have ever had till date. Earlier, the best one was with Urja, but this one has beaten up all records and the most deadliest, thrilling, breath-taking, opportunistic and more importantly filled with responsibility.
This trek has taught me a lot of things like burning my ego, leadership, importance of time, water, Ignorance is bliss and most important one..
There is nothing called as GOD in those sculptures, idols. Idols and temples are just nothing but places and sculptures made by human race so that we believe that some power exists which is above all. Had the idols been like human, no-one had believed in god, why Ganesha has a trunk?, why Shiva has third eye?, why Dataprabhu has 3 heads? Its nothing but human imagination trying to give a shape to GOD that's why we have 33crores of variety of such idols. This trek taught me GOD can't fit into any shape, GOD doesnt live in temples. He exists in you, me and in everyone. He can come in the form of those Villagers, he can come in the form of Sakharam when we had lost hope of jeep. He can meet you anytime, anywhere. You just need to keep your eyes open and have "FAITH" and "BELIEF"
Day 1 | 23:15 hrs: Kalyan ST Depot. Stale Wadapav in one hand, phone in right hand trying to connect with Sarika, backsack of around 10 kgs. Checked with the officials at ST depot, which is the last bus for Savarne. My baby-elephant's memory was telling me that there is one last bus at 00.30hrs, however the ST officials were claiming that the last bus is at 23:45hrs. Another group of young enthusiast trekkers came in at the enquiry window and asked about the 00.30hrs Nagar bus. The person at the enquiry counter was so irritated he answered him, "tya bus cha kahi nakki nahi aho, aali tar yeil nahitar sakal paryant ithech basa bomblat!!".
Day 1 | 23:45 hrs: UlhasNagar-Pathardi bus entered the ST depot. The driver logged his entry, had a quick round of bidi and pee time and returned near the bus. Just when he finished checking the tyres and entered the cockpit, i knocked on his window and asked him, "Kaka, 5 minute thambu shakta ka?". He replied with a meek voice, "nahi bhau, time jhala ata, nighato...".
Day 1 | 23:55 hrs: A herd entered ST depot, each one of them having carrymats tugged to their sacks. I understood, this must be none other than Sarika's group. Although Sarika and Ashlesh had not yet come, and were on the way. 5 minutes later my phone started blinking "TTS Sarkya calling...". After a quick round of intro with few of their friends, around 00.15 Nagar-Kalyan-Nagar bus entered the ST depot. There was quite a good competition to catch the seats as there were couple of other groups as well who were willing to catch that bus. Few of our folks managed to get in through the window.
Day 2 | 03:30 hrs: We got down at Savarne bus stop, its just when the actual Malsej ghat starts and alight point for harishchandra gad via nalichi vaat. We decided to rest our back and butt till 5am in the morning near a haunted house just outside the Savarne village.
It was a beautiful night with moon showering its lime-light over us from the west and the chilling cold malshej ghat in the east where we could see only moving headlights of the vehicles traversing the malshej. Few opted to have a powernap, whereas few were busy clicking night mode shots and few decided to have night chat.Day 2 | 05:15 hrs: We left that place and started moving towards Savarne village. Trying to find the way through the gully's of savarne village we reached one house where there was an old person sleeping in the varanda. I tapped on his legs and asked about the way to belpada(base village for nalichi vaat). He immediately woke and guided us through the way. We kept walking on the dusty way which took us till the base of the short hill between Savarne and Belpada. After crossing the hill, we reached halfway to Belpada. The way from Savarne to Belpada is very confusing and especially if you are walking in the moonlight. Just when we crossed the first hill, the dawn broke up and the almighty started its painting on the canvas behind the malshej in the east.
Orange, pink, purple, magenta it had all the colors in the world which are not even yet discovered by this TV manufacturing companies. It was a truely mesmerizing experience.Day 2 | 07:00 hrs: All we knew was we had to climb one more hill which is on our right hand side and we will be able to touch base kokankada. However, the way to reach the top was not so easy and nothing more than a maze where we lost our way couple of times. Few of us even climbed the hill and got more confused as the village on the other side looked like savarne (from where we had actually started our moonwalk). Ashlesh, Sameer and Vaibhav decided to move ahead and find out the way whereas other rested their butts in the brown dry fields of Savarne, enjoying the sun bath.
Day 2 | 07:30 hrs: Vaibhav returned back with a good news that they have found the way with the help of a villager and we were back on our track. The descend from the hill took us till the tar road which ended up at belpada. Although we took an hour and half extra, but the walk on the tar road with kokan kada exactly in front was amazing.
It was as if KK was calling us with its arms wide open for a tight jhappi(hug).Day 2 | 09:15 hrs: We freshened up ourself on a well where females from Belpada were busy washing utensils and filling up their cisterns. Immediately after the quick cleanup we had a real quick breakfast which comprised of bread, butter, thecha, lasun chatni, jam and parathas. Everyone was so hungry that the entire breakfast was over in less than 15 mins. We hired a person from the village (Tulshiram) who agreed to take us till the base of Nali, from there onwards the route was pretty straight and no chance of loosing over way in the middle.
Day 2 | 11:00 hrs: Road till base of Nalli was through fields of paddy. We were inching closer to KK every minute. During my first visit from Nalli i had thought that we will reach exactly below KK and can spend sometime over there, but thats not possible. Although it looks closer, it takes 1 - 2 hours if you need to go exactly below KK and as per Tulshiram, that place isnt safe, its haunted, not sure though. He had been there only once with some campers who had climbed KK cliff. The straight road from the paddy field was now transformed into rocky-way. Its actually, the route created by waterfalls during monsoon. There were water cisterns and natural ponds which had formed in the rocks, water in those pond was nothing less than holy water.
Day 2 | 12:30 hrs: Tulshiram was laughing at us since most of us had drowned when we had not even yet till the start of Nalli. He tried to convince me that the route ahead is tough and you should take me till the top. The route changes after every monsoon, it has become more difficult than last year. By this time, i had become slightly aware of the strengths and weaknesses of the group. My mind had started thinking about the action plan by now. I understood that none of these guys are aware of the challenges are kept for us on top. Many of them were moving at a faster pace but they were either new or going to apply breaks to their speed when the actual patch starts. Until now everything was fine, there were just rocks to climb but the 1st patch of 20 feet and 3rd traverse patch are actual USP's of Nali. Any avid trekker would love those patches more than his girlfriend. I tried to inject my concern raised by Tulshiram in Ashlesh's mind and Ashlesh then tried to spread it among the group.
Day 2 | 13:00 hrs: The guy in white shirt, khaki half pant and slippers rested his butt on a tree, yeah Tulshiram! I understood, he is now going to go back. My confidence had almost dropped down to 50% at that point. I tried to convince Sameer that we should take Tulshiram with us, atleast since he is leading, we will feel like following him and we will keep moving, however, Sameer had a different thought over this, he said, let him go, we will lead and people will follow us. This statement from Sameer charged me up and the trekker in me doubled/tripled the confidence in me.
Day 2 | 13:30 hrs: By now i had made up my mind. I took the charge and started moving ahead. Initially i was with the last group, i slowly slowly overtook each mini-group and joined the marchers(Mansi, Deepak, Durvesh, Sameer and 2 hindi-bhashik folks, Rahul and Hardy). We took a pledge that we will not touch water unless and until we cross the third patch. Many of us took the oath as well. I remember, at one point i even yelled at Swati/ Mansi for passing water to Durvesh. We were one group, but actually speaking there were two groups, one was me and rest, the 19. I am saying so because, in me there was a fear and in others there was enthusiasm, zeal of Nali. This group didnt know whats kept for them before the third patch. Yes the slipping scree and the boulders which were moving from their position at the pace of a moon in a lunar eclipse.
Day 2 | 14:00 hrs: Mansi being a naive trekker was marching through the rocks just like monkeys from one tree to another. I instructed her to wait at the point when there are no more trees in your path and you would see only rocks around you. Vaibhav, Ashlesh and Kaivalya was doing really well with the trailers and kicking laal chaddi's ass so that we can make it on time. By now, Kalyani's bag on my shoulders and my huge sack had started giving problem to me. I somehow said Kalyani that if she can carry her sack now, as its becoming very difficult for me. Kalyani agreed to carry it, was happy that everyone has now understood the responsibility. However, the next time i saw Kalyani's bag, it was with Kaivalya :P ;).
Day 2 | 14:30 hrs: First patch was pretty easy, was impressed to see Swati took the charge and climbed it with ease, then Kalyani and then everyone followed. Vaibhav as well took a different route and he was on top of the rock patch in no time. In his previous life, he must be a lizard if m not wrong.
Day 2 | 15:00 hrs: Just when everyone were happy that we have now crossed the first patch, here came the second one. Actually i had forgotten about this patch and all i was thinking, the patch which Swati climbed up was the first one. Infact it was the most easiest one. Actually patches had started now. We spent around 45 minutes here because it was approx around 20 feet high and 85 degree inclined. One could easily start-off well on this patch, but once you reach half way there were no gaps to sneak in your fingers and place your foot and to make things worst the small gaps were becoming big with the scree in the gaps was coming out and making the holders weak after every member passes from that area. If you wait for more than 5 seconds at a place then your legs will start trembling and hand grips will start slipping. The best way to get rid of it was to move as fast as possible. I was 3rd last to climb that patch, also took a powernap in those 30 minutes and made up my mind during that break because the most difficult section was coming up next and i had to be there to tie the rope or atleast help Vaibhav in doing so. I had almost drowned by now, blood in my veins were yelling to dilute themselves. I poured almost half packet of glucon-D into my mouth and broke my pledge. Had i not done that i would have crashed over there. Kept those feelings to me.
Day 2 | 14:30 hrs: Just when i completed the second patch. I started moving towards the 3rd one with my sack on my back. I asked Nikhil and Durvesh to join with. Route from patch 2 to patch 3 is the most deadliest. Full of scree and boulders. You step your feet on one boulder and the person following you has to make sure that the boulder is not going to come rolling down over him. Slowly slowly Nikhil reached till the end of the Nalli. For a novice or first-timer at Nallichi vaat, the road seems to end at that point. At one moment you would even think that you have lost the way and you must have entered a wrong Nali, but thats not true, just when the Nali ends there is a traverse patch which one needs to climb to enter the right Nali. Although Nikhil had reached till the end of Nalli, i was yet to reach there and explain him whats the action plan. I was stuck at one point standing on continuously slipping scree and willing to get onto a rock which was baseless. Had it slipped, would have gone back atleast 20-30 feet back on my track and would have taken couple of more guys along with me. Actually i had taken the wrong way, i should have opted to take the boulder path than the scree filled path. Took a deep breath and carefully got on top of the rock. Just when i climbed up and was having a sigh of relief, i saw Durvesh coming behind me. Oh Shit! was my first reaction, i could tell him to go back and come from other way, but it was not possible. Slowly placed my sack at a safe place. Dragged myself till Durvesh and lifted him. I could see the fear of death in Durvesh's eyes. Had never seen anyone so much afraid in any of my treks till date, although have heard of, but this time was witnessing it. Pulled Durvesh up and asked him to take deep breath. He was so afraid that i asked him to move one step above and he was hesistant, i could imagine his heart beating faster than tampered autorickshaw meter's of mumbai.
Day 2 | 16:30 hrs: Making sure that Durvesh is stable now, i started moving towards Nikhil. Nikhil's condition was not anything different than Durvesh's. I reached till Nikhil who was sitting exactly at the tip of Nalli, there was a overhang above us which was around 100-120 feet. Mr. Sun was getting ready for a dip in the Arabian Sea. Although we were not able to see the Sun but from the point where we were sitting, we could see the mountain range on the left side of KK. I asked Durvesh to callup Vaibhav with rope. Vaibhav in no time, reached till me and Nikhil. Now we three were in an awkward position and i was explaining Nikhil and Vibhav what we need to do next. I explained Vaibhav, he needs to climb the rock patch above us and keep moving right till a small plant of sacred fig(peepal) in its premature stage which had come out of the rocks. The plan was Vaibhav had to tie the rope to that plant and drop it down, a person will sit exactly below that plant (approx 12 feet) on the scree tie the rope one by one to each of our's waist and Vaibhav will give his hand from top and pull the person on top. But hangon hangon, this is possible only when Vaibhav will reach there without a rope first, i mean without any support. Vaibhav made a statement here, "Praful, can you go ahead, you have already done this once, can you please take the lead?". A BIG PAUSE! ............. I was stumped with that statement, reason being last time when i had been through Nalli, Amit and Siddhesh Paradkar had taken the responsibility of free climbing. And now, this was my moment of the trek. I was DOWN with confidence at one moment with Vaibhav's statement and was UP with another statement. "The only way to avoid it, is to face it. -[Movie 300]". That statement was inspirational, god knows where did that statement came into my mind, but it pumped me up. I immmediately removed my floaters and took a look at the traverse which covered around 15 feet horizontal. Thankfully the place where Nikhil was sitting, there was one more peepal tree which was in its much early stage hardly 2-3 months old may be it must have cropped out during this monsoon. I tied a rope-end to that plant and another to my waist. Well it was just for mental satisfaction that i am tied to something even if i fall, even though it was of no use, coz i dont think that the plant could handle 60 kgs. I started moving, two hands on the gaps on top and legs making places between cracks. I was trying to concentrate hard, by this time, Hardy and Durvesh had reached till the rock cut steps and were managing their places. There was lot of chaos around, which was making me difficult to concentrate. I lost my patience and finally yelled, "guys please stop murmurring, let me concentrate. give me 5 minutes. please be quite." and there was silence. Thanks for listening to me and sorry guys for being so rude at that time. Finally i could see myself moving closer to the premature peepal tree. Only thing i could see at that time was the peepal tree. Slowy slowly making my way through the cracks and holders i managed to steal my way till the peepal tree. A sigh of relief, for me, for Vaibhav, Nikhil and for all the spectators. Many of them might not be even knowing this until they read this.
Day 2 | 17:45 hrs: Sameer took the responsibility of sitting on the scree and tying the rope to every member. Vaibhav showed a demo to everyone and then others followed. Everyone was happy that we have completed the 3rd patch and we are now going to reach the plateau. Although we had missed the sunset from KK, my mind had some new plans, before the sparkling stars break out we should reach the plateau. I was finding it difficult since 5/6 members were yet to complete the final patch. I asked Vaibhav to take the rest of the crew ahead and start moving towards to plateau. I explained him the route till top as much i could remember.
Day 2 | 19:10 hrs: By the time everyone crossed the last patch it was completely dark. There was traverse and we had now moved to the right nalli (the one which is exactly beside KK). It is said that there are two Nali route, the right one being toughest of the two. At the 3rd patch the left nali ends and you will be directed to right nali. The start of the right nali was again a patch of around 8 feet, which we all climbed in dark. Thanks to the darkness that the fear about the height was now dead. Well, it was a complete fulltoss in the right nali, had anyone slipped, life would have been rude to us. We were able to hear people having chat on top. I was tensed when i understood that the members which had moved ahead to reach till plateau were still few steps ahead of us as they didnt find the way. We were making our way through the bolders and scree and in pitch dark with barely 2/3 torchs. I had an annoying torch which was in its own mood and was continuously flickering making things more worse for me.
Day 2 | 19:35 hrs: I heard someone shouting, "aye waat sapadli, waat sapadli!" I was happy and sad at the same time, because the voice was none-other than Rupal's. All i was wondering was, has Nallichi vaat become so easy that these guys found the way to plateau so easily? There was definitely some false hope. When i reached at a comparatively better position than that of scree, what i saw was, the moment of my life. I thank him for the wonderful mornings and for each new day in my life, i thank him for every happy moment in my life. I ask him to give me strength during crunch situations. I believe in him. All i used to believe till date was he exists in different forms. Human has given him different shapes and made his idols in different forms to make him look different so that people would believe that there is something which exists and which is par above human power, but frankly speaking he doesnt exists anywhere else but in me, in you, in everyone. He is GOD. Yes! i met GOD for the first time in my life. There were two villagers who came to rescue us.
Day 2 | 20:00 hrs: The way from there till the plateau was through a jungle and was a climb again through scree. My mind was resting now, since there were two new leaders who were paving the way for us. All i was a body which was comfortably numb which wanted to reach till KK as early as possible. I purposely kept quite and yelled at everyone to stay cool and keep following the GOD. God was so kind, that just when we reached the plateau they went to fetch some water for us. I heard them saying, "thamb paani gheun yeuya, pora tahanleli aahet". However, there was now water around, so we decided to move on. I followed one of them, the other one went ahead with an assurance to come back with water until we finish our 4th and the last patch. Just when we reached the last patch through another jungle, a rope was thrown from top, i quitely climbed the rope without any nautanki and sat up on the top with me sack as a cushion to my back. Till that time, the other GOD had brought a can full of liquid with "paani" written over it for us with a steel glass. I drank it, it was chilling cold. Not sure whether anyone has tasted AMRUT till date but i have! I sold it at 5 rs. per glass to each and everyone in the team. I could see everyone had handed themselves over to the two GODs who had come for our rescue.
Day 2 | 21:30 hrs: Another half hour of climb we were at the KK but this time on top. We were assured that we will be given Onion pakoda just when we reach KK. It was chilling cold at KK with breeze which was flowing at almost low of 8-10degree celcius. I would never forget that night when we had GOD made Onion pakoda, steaming hot pithala-bhakri and rice at 1 am. That was nothing else than heavenly experience.
Day 3 | 01:30 hrs: Immediately after the pithala bhakri, we decided to take the nap of content with some ghost stories and some old adventurous trek experiences. Finally at 02:00 each one of us was dead and remiscing in their dreams about our journey to heaven.
Day 3 | 05:30 hrs: 3-4 abstract images covered with blankets passed above my head, those were the villagers who had given us 2 of the 3 basic necessities last night, yes food and shelter. The cold weather was commanding me to stay under my bedsheet. Chappi, Sarika, Ashlesh, Rupal had arranged a bornfire to get rid of the cold. After completing the early morning nature's call I too joined the group sitting beside bornfire. Taking a quick warmup i pulled out canon from my handbag and moved towards KK. The dawn had just broke up and the clouds had covered a sheet over belpada village from where we had started yesterday. On the right side of the canvas of kokan kada clouds has arranged themselves like cotton balls over the pinkish-blue canvas. Everyone slowly started joining the camp at Kokan kada, where we spent some time enjoying the beauty of the heaven on earth as said by Arvind Barve.
Actually when you see the scenic beauty, all your egoes are crushed down, you feel meek infront of the nature, the power which nature has is divine. In our day to day life we face many challenges, and we boast when we overcome them and praise ourself, but when we see such naturally created structures we tend to get bowled, its the nature who is so strong, so robust, so beautiful yet so quite and never boasts about its greatness. At the same time, it gives you power, encourages you, improves your willpower, teaches you lessons, you feel strong when you spend time with nature, when you see such huge mountains aiming to grow more big and touch the sky. One can spend hours at kokan kada and still feel that he/she havent yet completely explored it. Huge, Vast, monumental, stupendous all these adjectives are void in front of KK. KK is simply immeasurable. If one decides to pendown about KK, he will never be able to end it up.Day 3 | 09:00 hrs: Well, it was tea-time and chef Kiran and Prabodh had made wonderful tea. We gulped it with parle-G and banana chips. Immediately after the tea-round everyone rushed for the nature's call. Exhausting kilos of human waste with the company of nature is really fun. You get the maximum privacy and that too open privacy unlike our apartment's washroom where you are doing it privately and that too in a closed room, so whats the fun? Enjoy doing it in nature, its fun! Now since our fuel tanks were empty we decided to cook some khichdi and everyone offered a bit of help. Few decided to enjoy their time discussing yesterday's experience, everyone had a different script.
Day 3 | 13:00 hrs: We were all set to march back home but this time through pachnai. We gathered all the necessary information from Bhaskar (one of the GOD) and thanked him for his help when were in utmost need. We took darshan of Kedareshwar and the hemadpanthi style of temple constructed on Harishchandragad and started our descend through pachnai.
Day 3 | 14.30 hrs: One while descending through pachnai will get a feel that why the hell do we take another route when its so simple to visit harischandra gad via the safest and shortest route. Yes if you dont take any halts then you can reach the base in an hour. However, it was not so easy for us even on this route. Since Swati and Nilkanth had not seen kedareshwar cave, they went back with a promise to come back quickly, Ashlesh, Kaivalya and i decided to wait till they come back and rest all were ordered to start moving. We met Kalyani and Vaibhav halfway since Kalyani had a casuality and was moving slow with her injured leg. We were halfway down near the naturally formed water cistern and saw everyone sitting there, however Sarika, Sameer, Mansi, Deepak were missing.
Prabodh told they seem to have taken the wrong route and were untraceble. Ashlesh started worrying up. Few of us ran through the way which was heading in wrong direction and started calling Sarika, Sameer loudly. But there was no response. Finally we decided that everyone will start moving ahead and Ashlesh and i decided to wait for sometime at that place. Plan was someone will rush down and locate Sarika and team and send us the news back. We spent almost 45 minutes there and with a gut feeling Ashlesh and i made a move. Sarika is known to be unstoppable during descends, so she might have already reached the base hence we started moving. We met Vaibhav and team halfway and finally got the news that Sameer, Sarika and team have reached the base. Day 3 | 16:30 hrs: Another twist, Sakharam who owns the jeep which was supposed to take us till Rajur was not in the village. We had left a message on Sakharam's cell that we will touch base by 14:30 and wish to hire his jeep. Ironically, Sakharam had left his phone somewhere and was hired by someone from another village. Chappi and i along with a villager tried to findout Sakharam's house, however his old mother had no idea where her son is, Sakharam's 4 year son came following us till the pachnai chowk. Just when we reached Pachnai chowk, a vehicle honking its horn came towards pachnai chowk. My face was shining bright when i heard from the fellow villager that its Sakharam's jeep. We immediately fixedup the rent and divided the team of twenty into two. Sakharam had to drop someone which was about to take atleast half an hour.
Day 3 | 18:30 hrs: Sakharam's kid tugged his father trouser, may be he was expecting a chocolate from his father who had left house for work when he was in deep sleep in the morning. We started from Pachnai, the curves on the road were increasing every km with the temperature droppping every minute. Sakharam could have driven with closed eyes on that road. He was just awesome.
Day 3 | 19:30 hrs: The greedy cab drivers hovered Kaivalya and me when they came to know that we want to catch the 21.15 Kasara local. We had made up our mind we wont give anything more than 1000 rs for Rajur to Kasara as 90 rs. is per-seat rate for cabs during day-time. However, since we had reached at an odd time, we finally had to spill 200 bucks extra. That asshole was driving so slow that Kaivalya and i was sure that we gonna miss the 21.15 local. We decided about the tickets to be bought in the cab itself.
Day 3 | 21:10 hrs: Just when the cab reached kasara station. Kaivalya ran to the ticket counter and before we entered the train, Kaivalya was IN with the tickets. Thats an advantage of being in NCC, you are taught to be fast. :). Still there was one ticket missing. Kaivalya ran again to get it. The indicator was showing 21:14 hrs. By that time Deepak did a good deed of buying bhel for each one of us. I finished it off when we reached Kalyan. Wish i had a straw to suck it, was bored of pouring it on hand and then in my mouth. My body was tired. Phone continuous busy to know where our other 10 members have reached. When i got the last news they had left from Rajur and were on the way to Kasara. The last local was on chart for them. If they miss it, then u-turn to Igatpuri for some express train to come to mumbai. Here, everyone started getting down one-by-one starting from Kalyan.
Day 4 | 00:00 hrs: Reached Dadar along with Chappi and other hindi bhashik guys ;). It was the climax of a memorable trek.
Day 4 | 01:15 hrs: Called up Ashlesh, came to know that they had missed their last Kasara local all because of another slow asso driver. They had just taken some Pawan express from Igatpuri and heading to Mumbai.
All in all one of the most adventurous trek i have ever had till date. Earlier, the best one was with Urja, but this one has beaten up all records and the most deadliest, thrilling, breath-taking, opportunistic and more importantly filled with responsibility.
This trek has taught me a lot of things like burning my ego, leadership, importance of time, water, Ignorance is bliss and most important one..
There is nothing called as GOD in those sculptures, idols. Idols and temples are just nothing but places and sculptures made by human race so that we believe that some power exists which is above all. Had the idols been like human, no-one had believed in god, why Ganesha has a trunk?, why Shiva has third eye?, why Dataprabhu has 3 heads? Its nothing but human imagination trying to give a shape to GOD that's why we have 33crores of variety of such idols. This trek taught me GOD can't fit into any shape, GOD doesnt live in temples. He exists in you, me and in everyone. He can come in the form of those Villagers, he can come in the form of Sakharam when we had lost hope of jeep. He can meet you anytime, anywhere. You just need to keep your eyes open and have "FAITH" and "BELIEF"
